Leather Industry Glossary: Tanning, Leather Types and Finishes

Rolls of natural leather in brown, cream and burgundy

This leather industry glossary explains terms used when specifying natural leather for bags, footwear and belts. Separate the animal species, tanning method, surface structure and finish when describing an order.

Rolls of natural leather in brown, cream and burgundy

Aniline and aniline finish

Leather whose natural grain remains visible, with no surface coating or a non-pigmented finish. It is different from an opaque pigmented finish.

Buffed leather, nubuck and suede

Buffing changes the surface mechanically. Nubuck is buffed on the grain side; suede has a velvet-like nap and is commonly made from split leather. The terms are not interchangeable.

Cementable leather

Leather suitable for adhesive bonding during product assembly. Confirm the adhesive system and bonding performance for the intended construction. This does not mean bonded leather.

Bonded leather

A material made by binding leather fibres or particles. It does not retain the continuous structure of a hide.

Combination tanning

The use of more than one tanning system or agent to achieve the required properties. Fatliquoring alone is not combination tanning.

Corrected grain

Leather whose grain has been mechanically corrected and finished to create a more uniform surface.

Crocking

Colour transfer caused by rubbing. Specify dry and wet rub-fastness requirements and the test method when placing an order.

Crust

Tanned, fatliquored and dried leather before final finishing. Crust may be dyed or undyed; it is not necessarily free of oils.

Draw

A drawn or puckered appearance of the grain. Assess the sample and intended appearance rather than relying on the term alone.

Embossed leather

Leather with a surface pattern produced by pressure. The leather base, temperature, pressure and dwell time influence the result.

Fatliquoring

Introducing suitable oils into the leather during processing to influence softness and fibre lubrication.

Finishing

Surface operations and coatings used to obtain the required appearance, handle and performance.

Full grain

Leather that retains its grain without corrective mechanical removal of the surface.

Glazed leather

Leather given a polished surface through glazing, traditionally using a smooth glass tool.

Hot stuffing

Introducing a heated mixture of oils, fats and sometimes waxes. The name alone does not guarantee waterproof performance.

Drum-dyed leather

Leather dyed in a rotating drum. Colour penetration and uniformity should be checked against the approved sample.

Paste drying

A drying method in which leather is held on a smooth surface. It is unrelated to bonded leather made from particles.

Pull-up leather

Leather that lightens locally when stretched or bent, typically because oils or waxes move within the material.

Retanning

A processing stage after primary tanning used to adjust properties such as fullness, softness and formability. It is distinct from fatliquoring.

Shell cordovan

Leather made from a dense fibrous layer in the hindquarters of equines.

Toggling

Drying leather while it is stretched and held with clips on a frame or perforated panel.

Vegetable tanning

Tanning with plant-derived tanning agents such as tannins. It does not mean tanning with vegetable oil.

Thickness and ounces

Specify thickness in millimetres. In common leather thickness terminology, one ounce is approximately 0.4 mm. Thickness alone does not determine durability.

Wet-blue

Leather in a wet state after chrome tanning, an intermediate production stage.

Square foot

An area unit: one square foot equals 0.092903 square metres. State area and thickness separately in an enquiry.

How to specify leather for an order

Provide the species, final application, thickness range and tolerance, colour, texture, finish, usable area and quantity. Agree on an approved sample and quality requirements before confirming production.

Explore the natural leather shop, printing and embossing services, or contact Dalir Leather for an enquiry.

Frequently asked questions

Is nubuck the same as suede?

No. Nubuck is buffed on the grain side; suede is commonly made from split leather or the flesh side.

Is crust raw hide?

No. Crust has already been tanned and dried but has not received its final finish.

Is thicker leather always better?

No. Match thickness to construction, flexibility, strength and the intended application.

Terminology references

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