Get to know our language (Leather industry)

Browse some of our most frequently used terms to describe characteristics and processes. Leather industry

Leather industry

(Aniline:(Leather industry

Dyes and finishes that contain no pigment. When used on leather they provide a rich, clear stain that allows the natural character of the article to be seen.

(Aniline Finish:(Leather industry

Leather finished with a clear top in order to show the natural grain of the leather.

(Buffed:(Leather industry

Leather that has been sueded; it can also be referred to as snuffed, nubuck or grain-sueded leather.

(Cementable:(Leather industry

Refers to leather(s) that can be glued as a means of final attachment during the construction of leather goods.

(Combination Tanned:(Leather industry

Leathers that are tanned using both chrome and blends of vegetable extracts along with emulsified or unrefined oils and waxes.

(Corrected Grain:(Leather industry

 Leather that has been sanded to make its surface more uniform.

(Crock: (Leather industry

Color that rubs off finished leather.

(Crust:(Leather industry

Leather that has been tanned but not finished. Crust leathers are often colored/dyed, but no finishing oils or treatments have been added.

Draw:

Shrunken, shriveled or wrinkled grain surface of leather.

Emboss: 

To give a flat piece of leather a pattern or texture that stands out in relief through pressing with tremendous pressure.

Fat Liquored: 

Leather that has been nourished and conditioned with emulsified oils.

Finish:

 Surface applications on the leather to color, protect, or mask imperfections.

Full Grain:

Leather that has its surface left completely intact, showing all natural characteristics of the hide.

Hand Glazed:

Leather that has been polished with a glass rod.

Leather industry

Hot Stuffed: 

Leather that has been nourished and conditioned with unrefined oils and greases. This is achieved without the use of water and emulsifiers and gives a much richer feel. Hot stuffed leathers typically exhibit pull-up and good water resistance.

Mill-Dyed: 

Leather that has had dyes introduced during retannage. Also referred to as drum-dyed.

Pasted: 

Leather that has been dried by fixing it to large glass or ceramic plates. Pasted leathers have very little stretch and smooth grain character.

Pull-up: 

The temporary lightening of certain leathers when folded. This is caused by displacing oil and waxes.

Retan: 

To impregnate and condition preserved hides with tanning liquors and extracts.

Shell:

A dense fiber structure found only in the hindquarters of equine animals.

Toggled: 

Leather that has been air-dried after being stretched on a metal screen and clamped into place.

Vegetable Tanned:

A tanning method that employs vegetable liquors derived from tree barks. This method of tanning is very traditional and takes longer to achieve than chrome tanning.

Weight:

Also referred to as thickness or substance. Leather is generally sold in ounces or millimeters, and in increments of 1/2 oz or 0.2 mm, respectively.  For example, 5 – 5 1/2 oz (or 2.0 – 2.2 mm) is a typical footwear weight produced.

Wet Stuffed:

Similar to fat liquored, wet stuffed leathers are nourished and conditioned with heavier emulsified oils and waxes.

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