{"id":16006,"date":"2021-01-05T20:19:56","date_gmt":"2021-01-05T20:19:56","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/dalirleather.com\/?p=16006"},"modified":"2026-10-20T17:39:41","modified_gmt":"2026-10-20T17:39:41","slug":"leather-industry-5","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/dalirleather.com\/en\/leather-industry-5\/","title":{"rendered":"Leather Industry Glossary: Tanning, Leather Types and Finishes"},"content":{"rendered":"

This leather industry glossary explains terms used when specifying natural leather<\/a> for bags, footwear and belts. Separate the animal species, tanning method, surface structure and finish when describing an order.<\/p>\n

\"Rolls<\/p>\n

Aniline and aniline finish<\/h2>\n

Leather whose natural grain remains visible, with no surface coating or a non-pigmented finish. It is different from an opaque pigmented finish.<\/p>\n

Buffed leather, nubuck and suede<\/h2>\n

Buffing changes the surface mechanically. Nubuck is buffed on the grain side; suede has a velvet-like nap and is commonly made from split leather. The terms are not interchangeable.<\/p>\n

Cementable leather<\/h2>\n

Leather suitable for adhesive bonding during product assembly. Confirm the adhesive system and bonding performance for the intended construction. This does not mean bonded leather.<\/p>\n

Bonded leather<\/h2>\n

A material made by binding leather fibres or particles. It does not retain the continuous structure of a hide.<\/p>\n

Combination tanning<\/h2>\n

The use of more than one tanning system or agent to achieve the required properties. Fatliquoring alone is not combination tanning.<\/p>\n

Corrected grain<\/h2>\n

Leather whose grain has been mechanically corrected and finished to create a more uniform surface.<\/p>\n

Crocking<\/h2>\n

Colour transfer caused by rubbing. Specify dry and wet rub-fastness requirements and the test method when placing an order.<\/p>\n

Crust<\/h2>\n

Tanned, fatliquored and dried leather before final finishing. Crust may be dyed or undyed; it is not necessarily free of oils.<\/p>\n

Draw<\/h2>\n

A drawn or puckered appearance of the grain. Assess the sample and intended appearance rather than relying on the term alone.<\/p>\n

Embossed leather<\/h2>\n

Leather with a surface pattern produced by pressure. The leather base, temperature, pressure and dwell time<\/a> influence the result.<\/p>\n

Fatliquoring<\/h2>\n

Introducing suitable oils into the leather during processing to influence softness and fibre lubrication.<\/p>\n

Finishing<\/h2>\n

Surface operations and coatings used to obtain the required appearance, handle and performance.<\/p>\n

Full grain<\/h2>\n

Leather that retains its grain without corrective mechanical removal of the surface.<\/p>\n

Glazed leather<\/h2>\n

Leather given a polished surface through glazing, traditionally using a smooth glass tool.<\/p>\n

Hot stuffing<\/h2>\n

Introducing a heated mixture of oils, fats and sometimes waxes. The name alone does not guarantee waterproof performance.<\/p>\n

Drum-dyed leather<\/h2>\n

Leather dyed in a rotating drum. Colour penetration and uniformity should be checked against the approved sample.<\/p>\n

Paste drying<\/h2>\n

A drying method in which leather is held on a smooth surface. It is unrelated to bonded leather made from particles.<\/p>\n

Pull-up leather<\/h2>\n

Leather that lightens locally when stretched or bent, typically because oils or waxes move within the material.<\/p>\n

Retanning<\/h2>\n

A processing stage after primary tanning used to adjust properties such as fullness, softness and formability. It is distinct from fatliquoring.<\/p>\n

Shell cordovan<\/h2>\n

Leather made from a dense fibrous layer in the hindquarters of equines.<\/p>\n

Toggling<\/h2>\n

Drying leather while it is stretched and held with clips on a frame or perforated panel.<\/p>\n

Vegetable tanning<\/h2>\n

Tanning with plant-derived tanning agents such as tannins. It does not mean tanning with vegetable oil.<\/p>\n

Thickness and ounces<\/h2>\n

Specify thickness in millimetres<\/a>. In common leather thickness terminology, one ounce is approximately 0.4 mm. Thickness alone does not determine durability.<\/p>\n

Wet-blue<\/h2>\n

Leather in a wet state after chrome tanning, an intermediate production stage.<\/p>\n

Square foot<\/h2>\n

An area unit: one square foot equals 0.092903 square metres. State area and thickness separately in an enquiry.<\/p>\n

How to specify leather for an order<\/h2>\n

Provide the species, final application, thickness range and tolerance, colour, texture, finish, usable area and quantity. Agree on an approved sample and quality requirements<\/a> before confirming production.<\/p>\n

Explore the natural leather shop<\/a>, printing and embossing services<\/a>, or contact Dalir Leather<\/a> for an enquiry.<\/p>\n

Frequently asked questions<\/h2>\n

Is nubuck the same as suede?<\/h3>\n

No. Nubuck is buffed on the grain side; suede is commonly made from split leather or the flesh side.<\/p>\n

Is crust raw hide?<\/h3>\n

No. Crust has already been tanned and dried but has not received its final finish.<\/p>\n

Is thicker leather always better?<\/h3>\n

No. Match thickness to construction, flexibility, strength and the intended application.<\/p>\n

Terminology references<\/h2>\n